Time: 2 hrabout 20-25 piecesapprox. 170 kcal / serving (estimated)approx. 2 g protein / serving
Hájas pogácsa is the festive star of Hungarian savoury baking: small scones folded like puff pastry, but with pork leaf lard in place of butter, so they bake into flaky layers. Traditionally they were made from fresh leaf lard after the pig slaughter. All the folding only looks difficult at first, and the result is the finest of flaky pogácsa.
Ask your butcher for minced leaf lard, or buy it ready-minced. If it smells strong, soak it in cold water for a few hours, then pat it dry.
Mash the leaf lard smooth with a fork and keep it somewhere cool.
Knead it together with one third of the flour, then put it in a cold place.
To the remaining flour, add the egg yolks and the salt, mix well, then add the white wine and enough cold water to make a dough as firm as pastry dough; knead it thoroughly by hand.
Roll the dough into a rectangle, place the lard mixture in the centre and fold the edges over it. Then roll it out and fold it into thirds four times in a row, chilling it in the fridge for 15 minutes between each turn.
Roll out to 2 cm thick, cut out the scones and bake at 200 °C (180 °C in a fan oven) for 20-25 minutes until golden brown.
Based on: Malatinszky Fanny szakácskönyve (a classic Hungarian cookbook), modernised. Calories and protein are estimated.
Tips
Always keep the lard cold and work in a cool kitchen, because if it warms up it melts into the dough and the layers disappear.
Use a sharp cutter and press straight down without twisting, because twisting seals the layers together and the scones will not rise nicely.
Before baking, score a lattice on top with a sharp knife and brush with beaten egg or milk, so that they turn a lovely glossy golden brown.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I get leaf lard, and can it be replaced?
You can usually ask for it at a butcher's or market, and it often comes ready minced. A similar flaky scone can be made with butter, but that is really a butter pogácsa, with a less distinctive flavour.
How should the finished scones be stored?
They keep for 3-4 days in a metal tin or sealed container, and they stay flaky too. 3-4 minutes in a hot oven restores their crispness before serving.