Candied Sweet Potato with Pineapple (Camote y piña)

Camote y piña is a sweet from the old Mexican home confectionery tradition, a relative of the thick fruit pastes of convent kitchens. Sweet potato cooks down with sugar syrup into a glossy, dense paste, and grated pineapple gives it a tart freshness. It is very sweet, so it is best in a small glass, alongside coffee or strong tea.

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Method

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1. Cook the sugar with a little water to the caramel "soft ball" stage.
2. Take it off the heat and stir in the mashed sweet potato.
3. Return to the heat and cook, stirring constantly, until thickened.
4. Add the grated pineapple and cook for a few more minutes.
5. Serve in sherbet glasses.

Source: Project Gutenberg – One Hundred & One Mexican Dishes (May E. Southworth, 1906) – Camote y Piña (Közkincs (public domain)), adapted and translated. This page is also licensed Közkincs (public domain).

Tips

• Watch the syrup, because it darkens quickly after the soft-ball stage. If you use a sugar thermometer, take it off the heat at 115 °C.
• The mashed sweet potato must be completely smooth, because lumps will survive even in the thick paste. If it is stringy, push it through a sieve.
• The hot paste spits, so stir it with a long-handled wooden spoon. A pinch of cinnamon or some lemon zest balances the sweetness nicely.

Frequently asked questions

How long does it keep?

It keeps for 5 days in a sealed container in the fridge. The high sugar content helps it last, but it gets thicker when cold.

Can I make it with less sugar?

You can, but the paste will be less dense and will not keep as well. You can leave out a third of the sugar if you want a looser cream and plan to eat it within 2 days.

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